My Micronesian Adventure

Mangrove Madness

2008-11-02T22:54:00.000-08:00

Well we are fully underway with our newest endeavor. The Mangrove Project, the goal of which is to determine the success of conservation areas in Airai. We are looking at tree biodiversity as well as crab, and clam populations. A large part of the project is tagging and releasing mangrove crabs. Therefore, we have become full time crab fishermen. However, there is one catch we do not get to keep our catch. This is the worst part. We are catching tagging and releasing what would be a delicious dinner. This is a very hard thing to do as our mouths are watering as we release some of the crabs back into the water. It is difficult work especially because we do not get to reap the rewards. We have 36 traps spread over 4 different conservation areas throughout Airai in; Negeruluobel, Ngerusar, Oikull, and Ngchesang. We also plan on doing 36 circular plots 12 meter in diameter.

Me and Ann plotting on the forgiving mangrove terrain

We are Looking at the difference in vegetation on the outside, middle, and inside of the mangrove forest. However, so far we have been focusing on the crabbing.

The past 3 or so weeks have been an introduction to crab fishing for all of us. Obak are captain navigates his boat delicately through the Taoch, cut channels through the mangroves.

One of the larger Taoch 15-20 ft across

Ann the first mate and recorder franticly scribbles data. I am the master-baiter, as well as crab handler and tagger. However, we did not simply undertake this crabbing on our own. We have enlisted a retired crabber Jack who has taught us some of the tricks of the trade. We have also spent time interviewing crab fishermen, as well as explaining our project.

We interviewed Cisco Obak Tow. With Ann Kitalong interviewing, and Clarence Kitalong Translating, and me as photographer. Cisco is now 54 years old, and as I said he had been crabbing since he was 18 when he learned from his father. He has around 125 traps set out in Ngchesechang, and Oikull that he baits and checks every day. From those traps he can catch 4 to 10 harvest-able crabs a day. This means that the crabs carapace is greater than 6 inches. Each month he can catch around 100 harvest-able crabs which he sells for 5 dollars a pound. When asked if he has seen any changes he says that the crabs have gotten smaller and fewer. He explains that his trade is becoming lost because there are too few crabs. It is easier for people to make money by growing betelnut (Tet in Palauan). He explains that there are crab fishermen that are taking crabs that are too small and believes that is why there is a problem. The interview was very interesting and the Obak was very knowledgeable of the crabs. He gave us a few pointers and we headed to check our traps.

This is how it works. The idea of a crab trap is very simple. It is a chicken wire trap with a tunnel door that gets smaller as it goes in. The crab can fit through the hole to get in but can not get back out. You use wire to secure chicken to the inside of the trap to attract the crab. There is a trap door at the back of the trap that is tied shut which we untie to remove the crab. Once they are out there is still another problem. Now you have a large crab with claws that would break your finger that you have to weigh, measure, and tag. Furthermore, they are not cooperative but once tied they are pretty easy to deal with. After a few days of crabbing I have become quite comfortable, and skilled if I may say so myself at tying, tagging, and releasing.

My tying and Obak baiting

It is quite easy actually you just step on their head pushing their claws against the ground rendering them useless. Then you take a piece of rubber band and stick it in their claw they clamp down. You then wrap the band around their body tie a knot and presto one claw is tied then you just repeat on the other side. Always be sure to use protection when handling mangrove crabs, rubbers work the best. After this the crab is weighed and measured which is simple, and then tagged. The tagging is actually quite easy we have a gun with a small needle. You poke it just under their carapace on their backside and squeeze the trigger.

Met tagging with assistance from a Rubak

The gun inserts a small T tag like a shirt into the crab the part that hangs out has our name and phone number on it.

Crab with Tag

This way if someone else catches the crab they can call us and let us know where, when, and its size. It is really a very simple task once you get the hang of it, and you commit to possibly losing a finger or two you have 10 anyway. Obak was telling me to be careful because if the crab bits your finger you will yell and jerk your arm away. However, the crab will not let go its arm will break from its body but the claw will still be there attached to your finger.

Me with a giant mangrove tagged and ready for processing

Thus far we have tagged and released 102 crabs with a good amount of recaptures (the dumb ones). I told Ann we would be doing the crab population a service by eating these ones because they are going to weaken the gene pool, but she did not buy it. Our biggest male crab weighed in at 4 and ½ pounds, and our biggest female was 2.53 lbs. We have gotten 15 crabs from Ngeruluobel, 28 from Ngerusar, 23 from Oikull, and 17 from Ngchesechang. This is what Ann was expecting. Ngerusar is the only no take area. The other areas are conservation, but people can take crab for non commercial purposes. The ration of Males to females is 80% to 20% lucky girls. The work is very interesting and we are acquiring a lot of data. The work is also very hard so we are taking a few days off this week.

Sometimes we catch some fish eating our bait and other small crabs. In one of our traps we caught a Juvenile bull shark around 3 feet in length. The other day we saw a crocodile in the river 8 to 10 feet in length. This is comforting considering we are doing tree plots in the mangroves. Meaning we have to get out of the boat. The crabbing has been going well and we are all beginning to get the hang of it. Obak is able to find all our traps, Ann is deliberately taking notes, and I have learned how to handle crabs from Jack. If you watched us one might think that we actually know what we are doing.

Having a few days off I decided to go Diving. We did two dives at Clarence Wall and Blue Corner. Clarence wall was a nice healthy reef wall with beautiful corals. One of the nicer parts was that there were turtles everywhere. We must have seen about 15 turtles on a single dive. When we got to the end of the dive there were a few sharks. However, the next dive was blue corner I have mentioned this before as one of the most famous dive sites in the world. It is quite the rush. When you dive blue corner you want a current. It brings in the fish and sharks and it is different every time. The best part about blue corner is hooking in. You start on the wall then you drift over the top of the corner which shoots out into the blue ocean. Once on top you take your reef hook, a hook with a rope attached and a clip on the other end. You hook to the substrate and attach the other end to your BC. Then you add some air to your BC so you float up and watch the show.

Diver hooked in a Blue Corner

If you ever wondered what it is like to be a kite this is it. Attached to the reef the current moves you up and down and left and right giving you a sense of gliding. The sharks and fish are doing the same riding the current. Sharks cruise by getting slightly closer with each pass. If the conditions are good you stay there for about a half hour. Watching the impressive show that nature puts on here. It is always a nice way to spend a Sunday. Well that is all for now I hope you all enjoyed.

Oh yea I almost forget on to celebrate Halloween we ate fruitbat for lunch it was good. it is boiled whole fur and everything, and when eaten the only thing left are the bones. Everything is eaten. The brain, tongue, guts, wings, and all the meat. It really was quite good once you got over the appearance.

YUMMY

Ponapea palauensis and Independence Day

2008-10-05T22:34:00.000-07:00

The Quest for the native palm... Ponapea palauensis

On Saturday yet another group of researchers arrived and we set off on another project. Christi, Carl, and Steve are studying the palm tree endemic to Palau. Their goal is to find samples document and take samples for DNA analysis in order to determine genealogy. They arrived Saturday night and Sunday we were off to look for the palm. Although, it had been spotted before it would still be a challenge to find it again. We set off in the morning by boat driving around looking for the palm in certain spots. The first stop that we made was at the Yapese stone money quarry in Babeldoab.

Before westernization the Yapese would canoe from Yap about 85 miles away to quarry quartz from the Palauian islands. They would shape large stone disks from the quartz and then canoe it back to yap. The value of the money was based upon its size, the length of time taken to get it, the amount of people it took, and the lives lost in the process. Some of the larger pieces still remain on Palau because they were to big to carry back. However, lets get back to the story at hand.

Stone Money Disk on Carp Island Coconut for Prespective

This elusive palm can only be found in a few spots. It does not have a use in Palau the locals do not really pay attention to it therefore, they are unaware of were to find it. However, our friend Clay has found it before and Obak knew the location. After searching the stone money quarry with no luck of finding the palm we went to the next location. We went slowly through some sand flats around the shallows of the rock islands until it became to shallow for us to continue. We anchored found a spot were we could hike in and look for the palm near a marine lake. We hiked in over a ridge and down into a drained marine lake and Olek (my gosh in Palauian) they were there. Even more surprising was that there was one there in flower, and one in fruit. Luck was with us the botanist took their samples for specimen vouchers, and then for DNA samples. After the collecting we loaded back into the boat and headed back. It was a very interesting and productive day.

This is where I live

This whole time I have overlooked my living conditions in Palau. I am living in a house with the Kitalongs. Ann Kitalong came over for the peace core and was one of there first volunteers here and never left. She married Clarence Kitalong (Obak). Another detail that I have overlooked I am living with a traditional chief of Palau. Ann and Obak live across the street from me near the kitchen in their house. I live below the office house in the basement apartment. Their grandmother Namlass lives next door as well as some other Palauians. My living arrangements are very nice in a one bedroom one bath apartment with kitchen and sitting area. However, I do not really spend to much time there mostly just sleep.

October 1^st Independence Day

Palau obtained its Independence on October 1^st 1994, so this October 1^st marked their 14^th independence day. I had never been in a country to celebrate their Independence day before which made it all the more interesting. What is even more interesting is that most of the people were alive when they gained their independence. Even people my age would have remembered their first independence. The Palauians celebrate their independence with a celebration on the KB bridge which includes a boat race. Obak has been gearing up for this boat race for some time entering his boat into the 85-115 horsepower category. The categories start at 25 horsepower and work their way up to 185. The fastest boats owned by some of the businesses are a spectacle. We watched the race from a beach called club (long u). It was a circular three lap course and the boats raced back and forth sometimes bouncing fully out of the water. The areas under the bridge were packed with Palauians celebrating, and the channel around the course was lined with boats filled with people. Everyone was there to see the race.

KB bridge with crowd gathered underneath to watch the race

Obak made a decision to let someone else race his boat for him. He had been the reigning champ for 5 years in a row. Last year he came in second which was the first year he lost. This year with a new Evenrude E-Tec 115 hp engine he was out for revenge, or so we thought. However, at the last minute he decided to let someone else race his boat a decision he would later regret. I thought it might have to do with the fact that he was up till 1 the night before drinking with McKnight, or neighbor and assistant in the field. He is a knowledgeable local and expert tree climber. Anyhow Obak was not racing some of his fans were disappointed but he had decided to pass the torch. His boat came in 3^rd the race was good but the winning boat was just faster. It had less boat and was more aerodynamic. However, the events were still enjoyable. Each race getting faster than the next boats fly by going so fast that the engine was the only part of the boat in the water at times. The race was very exciting and was a very enjoyable day for all.

Obak's boat racing byBanded Sea Snake came to say hello as I took pictures from the shore this is the most deadly snake in the world

Back to Botany

The next day we would be continuing our search for the endemic palm of Palau. Our search started in Airai on a Rock island that is soon to be a world heritage site. It harbors 2 marine lakes, as well as a Yapese stone money quarry.

Jungle with marine lake in background

Although we did not make it around to the quarry we did find this really neat cave. The cave was small and filled with bats which were quite annoyed when we woke them up. There was also a root from a tree extending into the cave. The root was around 15 cm in diameter and was around 10-15 meters in length. Although, the hike was very interesting we had no luck in finding the palm. We checked another beach with a nice trail leading into the jungle after, but still no luck.

Cave with bats

Slightly discouraged we had lunch and they decided to go to a spot where we had found them before. We took the boat there and being that I had already been to this site I pulled the volunteer card and sat this one out. Instead me and Obak did a little spearfishing.

The spearfishing was fun although neither of us had much luck. The fish as we like to say were very spooked and avoided you. At one point I dove down maybe to 20 or 30 feet and grabbed a rock getting ready to wait for a unsuspecting fish to swim buy. As reached back to position my hand over my trigger a large figure caught my eye. Black on the top a white-silver on the bottom. My initial instinct was a shark and my heart skipped a beat. It was very close I was so flush with the bottom that my strategy had worked except the wrong way. The fish had not seen me. However, as I got a better look at the creature I quickly realized it was a small spotted eagle ray maybe 1-1.5 M wingspan. As I came up from my hiding place it noticed me, and just as I had be frightened so was it. I was less than 10 ft away from this marvelous creature as it glided through the water it quickened its pace as I got closer. It gracefully moved through the water column darting up and then gliding until it disappeared into the abyss. Obak and I spent a little to long at this spot spearfishing for when we got back to pick up the botanist that had walked out across the flats to try to find us. They had found the palm however, we knew that it would be here. We still had time left in the day to check another site so we decided to go to Ulong where there had been a reported siting.

Beach at Ulong

The ride to Ulong was about 30-45 minutes. When we arrived there we drove around the island looking for the palm from the boat. With no luck we stopped at the main beach and looked around. Although still we had no luck. We did find a tree though with almost a dozen fruit bats enjoying a little dinner. We headed to the other side of the island and looked around some more, but still had no luck. I did some fishing and caught a small Barracuda which I released, but for a small fish it put up a good fight. After no luck of finding our Palm it was time to head back we were still a ways from Koror and were hoping to get back before dark to make it easier for us. Overall it was a good day and although we had trouble finding the palm we covered a lot of ground, producing a lot of negative results. This information still tells us a lot. Although we were unable to find the palm we now know more about its habitat and distribution.

Sunset on the way home from Ulong

This would be our last day in the field with the palm scientists. The next day was Friday and they had to get their permits to remove the plant parts from Palau. That night we all went to Dinner and happy hour and celebrated a successful research expedition. The next day Saturday we enjoyed a snorkel tour and a day of relaxing and not working on the rock Islands. Although, I had been to most of the places before it was a nice day to relax.

Sunday I went surfing in Melekeok. Although there was not much surf it was still fun. I went with an assistant AG Liz, and her friend Maii who works at dolphin pacific. We walked out on the pier and then paddled out to the break over the reef. We surfed for an hour or 2 and then paddled in. Afterwards we headed over to my friend Marvin's beach property Long Beach. The beach is really nice very calm and secluded. It is also the family farm where they grow beetle nut, lemons, coconuts, peppers and other produce. There we BBQed sat and drank in the water. We used boogie boards as our bar and everyone enjoyed the afternoon. I opened some clams as we sat in the water, they were a bigger hit than I expected. Overall it was a very relaxing and enjoyable Sunday.

Its Monday now and there is not much going on. We are working on making some mangrove traps for our mangrove project. However, everything is going pretty slow it seems that things outside the mangroves are moving just as slow as they will when we are in the mangrove. Although, we now hove 16 traps made we are making progress. The crabbers will be coming over Wednesday to make the rest of the traps which should be interesting. I was not around for the first session. However, this Wednesday I will be so I will keep you all posted. Well thats all for now hope everyone is doing well, and I hoped you enjoyed reading.

My Life Be Like

2008-09-18T19:45:00.000-07:00

The land and Ocean merge at times to form beautiful Vistas part of Palau's alluring charm

This post is again an apology for not updating my blog in some time. However, that is partially due to the fact that my life is much more normal and civilized in Palau. I am now residing in the basement apartment of my host families house. I get to shower in an actually shower every day after work and not in a stream. Meals are no longer canned tuna, kim chi, and rice, and I am no longer residing in the jungle. I am living with Ann and Clarence Kitalong, and their son Chris. The past month has flown by and it has been about two weeks now since my parents left. Palau is much different than Pohnpei. For one I am no longer the only white person when I go out to places. There is more of a downtown Palau, and people enjoy going out to bars. Since I have been here we having been mixing work with pleasure quite nicely. Never working to hard, and always making sure we play harder.
For the past month I have been helping Chris with his bulk collections for the National Cancer Institute (NCI). This has been our main focus beside a few transects we have done on a rock island. Chris is collecting bulk samples of plants in order to extract chemicals and examine them for medical purposes. In order to be able to extract enough of a certain chemical we need to collect a lot of the plant. He is also looking at weather different parts of the plant contain different agents. This means we are collecting 1 kg dry weight of 5 sometimes more parts of the plant including; leaves, fruits, bark, roots, stems, and rachii. Chris Climbing a tree for samples
Depending on the plant this can be an easy or difficult task. For instance if the plant has small leaves it takes some time to collect 1kg of leaves. Always keeping in mind that you need to collect more than 1 kg in the field because once they are dry they will weigh less. The fruits could be prickly, and the bark can be difficult to remove. However, with 3 people it will usually take about 1-2 hours to collect a tree. Then comes the fun part.
Processing. Once collected everything needs to be dried. Therefore, everything goes into wooden driers lined with light bulbs. Once dried everything is packed into collection bags and taken to the Belau National Museum. Belau is the traditional spelling. This is where we sort, label, and be sure that we have correct weights. Every piece of a plant gets a bar-code and a collection number e.g. CK 25. Chris then records the plant on bar-code on his master manifest. This will allow NCI to scan the bar-code and figure out what they are looking at. This can take sometime. This is because sometimes we realize we are missing part of a plant or a fruit has grown mold and needs to be cleaned. Other times the labeling gets ahead of the recording and we have to play catchup. The AC in the room is also broken and is warm because of the heat that escapes from the drying room making things quite uncomfortable. However, we manage to get everything done without killing each other and it is a relief once all the plants are labeled. Currently we are closing in on the finish line with these collections. We have all the specimens labeled and ready for shipping with only a few parts missing. We are currently getting ready to shift gears into a mangrove project.
The mangrove project will include plant and animal biodiversity in the mangroves. The mangroves are a very important ecosystem the people of Palau both economically, and environmentally. Economically they provide clams, and mangrove crabs. Mangrove crabs are like US crabs on steroids. They can weigh up to 4 lb with claws bigger than a 4 lb Maine lobster. The project is going to assess the biodiversity as well as how the locals use the mangrove and what they believe their importance is. This means we are going to be learning how to make traditional crab traps. We will be catching crabs tagging and releasing them. This will become the tricky part. We will all have to learn how to handle the crabs although the locals are quite good at it, it is important that we learn as well. My work through this next month is likely to be very interesting and I am sure it will have its moments. Environmentally the mangroves provide a nursery for reef fish, and are important preventer's in soil erosion. I will be sure to keep everyone informed about our mangrove madness once the project gets underway. However, early I said we play harder and at this point it would not seem that way but this is the truth.
We work hard through most of the week however, weekends are explicitly reserved for fishing, diving, and cruising through the 300 plus rock islands. Here in Palau we enjoy many types of fishing like line fishing, spearfishing, cast netting, and surface spearing to name a few. However, none of these others compare to spearfishing. This is because with line fishing you are stuck on the boat fishing the bottom waiting for some dumb fish to take the bait then you pull it up. However, spearfishing becomes a much more personal way to fish.
I call the ocean the Palauian fish market, and it has introduced me to the part of cooking. The procuring of the food. It is much different in the states where most of the time you just go to the fish market and buy what you want. I have discovered that this is no fun. Here we go out on the boat and fish for what we want. Not only is this more fun it is also more rewarding, and it makes the fish taste that much better. This brings me to another point. When buying fish in the states or catching people usually buy fillets of fish or fillets it themselves after fishing. This is a mistake. Fillets of fish loose flavor. Fish need to be cooked whole they retain flavor and moisture better from the bones and head. Furthermore, the head is the best part of the fishing containing the most tender meats. Try it you will not be disappointed. However, lets get back to the procuring part.
I use a 5 ft hand crafted wooden gun outfitted with rubber bands that you stretch back and hook to the spear which is held in by the trigger. You stalk your prey from the surface of the water waiting for them to become accustomed to your presence. You then take a deep breath and dive down to the bottom. Trying to remain totally relaxed so you do not use your oxygen. You slowly lurk across the bottom waiting for your shot. Your throat tightens and lungs shrink from the pressure of the water above you. You move ever so slowly as not to startle the fish and blow your chance you continue to wait. It helps if you can clear your mind and not think about breathing this will only make you want to come to the surface. You never know how long you are under for, but you do know you are slowly getting deeper and deeper. Twenty feet, thirty, forty, I am working on fifty, but some Palauians can reach 80 or deeper. Then you see it a fish that is eating or concentrating on something else. Its ability to judge distance is also altered due to the depth. It has not seen you yet and it is in range you creep a little closer as you do not want to miss. Extending the 5 ft wooden gun towards it very slowly to increase your reach. Then you shoot holding the gun tightly so the backfire does not cause you to miss. You hope you aimed well wanting to hit the fish just behind the eye or in the gut. Behind the eye will cause it to die quickly and a gut shot causes enough pain that it can not wiggle off the spear. Once its hit you either bring it to the surface and put it on the boat or on a fish line which you wear along your belt. All this activity and blood from the fish often creates quite a commotion under water. Usually attracting a few sharks. Although most of the time they are small and 4ft or less you do not really have to worry about them. However, the other day we attracted quite a large hammerhead.
The hammerhead was about 6ft and although this is small for a hammerhead it is still a scary sight yet beautiful site. It is not a comfortable thing to see while spearfishing but after the fact you are in awe. Sharks are an evolutionary masterpiece. Although I was frightened when I saw this large shark swim underneath me in less than 30 ft of water I was later astonished. For one I had never seen a hammerhead before and although I would be fine without seeing one again it was amazing. Although, in a way I have become accustomed to seeing sharks here especially while diving.

Palau is a diving mecca. Divers will cross the world just to come here and dive. Pacific currents converge on the islands bringing a diversity of life with them. This is why you become accustomed to sharks. Every dive you will see sharks. Maybe, one two three or fifteen. All depending on where you dive the current and the visibility. You dive on walls that descend into the depths of the ocean. Looking down you can see as far as the blue water will allow. You look off the wall and you see out into the blue ocean. You drift along the wall as if floating through space. observing the fish as you pass by. We do most of our diving from Carp Island Resort. Dock at Carp Island Resort

Floating Through Space at Siaes Tunnel

Cuttle Fish at Ngerchong (ch is silent) 1m lengthGiant Clam also at Ngerchong and the Rare Aging Hippy fishOctopus at Big Drop off a Drop off that goes straight down into th depths of the Ocean
Orange Anemonefish at Big Drop Off

Soft Coral along the wall vibrant with colorSo close you can touch Napoleon Wrasse are quite friendly

Turtle Says Hello at Blue Corner one of the most famous dive sites ｉｎ　ｔｈｅ　Ｗｏｒｌｄ

Carp island is an eco-resort located about 10 minutes from the dive sites. The usual ride from Koror is about 30-45 minutes. We enjoy spending weekends at carp it is very relaxing peaceful island. There is no TV, air conditioning or any of those comforts. We stay in Dive huts which are like dorms with a community bath facilities. Meals are all community style. However, it is a great way to wind down after a hard weeks work. The dive sites are so close we can kayak to them and spearfish on them. One night we even went spearfishing off the beach.

Sunset

This was quite frighting. Although, we were only in a few feet of water your flash lites only allow you to see about 5 ft in front of you in the murky water. You use short night spears with no barb because the fish are asleep and do not move. This takes some of the sport out of it. Once you find a fish sleeping in the seaweed you simply but the spear to its head and pull the trigger. Then you put it in the cooler floating behind you. However, your adrenaline is pumping the whole time and you pray you do not attract any sharks hence the floating cooler for the fish. However, we did quite well spearing a few rabbit fish and then exiting the water at the dock. It was quite the experience.

I said earlier that my life here was quite normal. However, I realize now that it is not. My work is much different than anyone else that I know. Except for the botanists that I have befriended. My weekends and down time is also much different. I am able to enjoy spearfishing, diving, kayaking, and just cruising through the rock islands. Which never fail to amaze no matter how many times you have seen them. There is always something new to see or another secret to discover. Even our work is sometimes mixed with pleasure. Yesterday 9/04/08 we took a river boat through the jungle. Identifying plants and feeding crocodiles. Just a usual day at the office. Lunch time for Crocs

The Begining of the End

2008-08-14T01:02:00.000-07:00

I would like to apologize for the delay on this post I know my readers have been waiting patiently. Also there are no pictures on these two stories because at times I find picture taking rude. I already stand out enough as it is and I do not want to continue to ostracise myself from the group. I hope you all enjoy as much as I enjoyed writing it.

Field 7-21 to 7-24

My adventures in Pohnpei would end where it all began Madolihnium. We were going up to the same site that we first went to when I arrived. I remember the hike being brutal and I was exhausted and beat up when I emerged from the jungle. Packing for these trips had become routine it is like preparing for battle. Knowing what lies ahead you pack clothes, hammock, sleeping bag, and you are sure to pack as lite as possible. Axes, Machetes, and Knives are sharpened, and when everything is in order you rest preparing for the day ahead. I was worried again about this hike and I was also dreading it. From what I remembered the hiking was slow and scary. Hiking up a river bank around and sometimes through waterfalls. However, this time was different.
We had to hike up a different way this time because the route we used last time was too muddy and flooded from all the rain. This time we would stay close to the river hiking up along wet, mossy, and slippery rocks. Although, my hiking was still slow my skills had improved greatly. I was not clambering form rock to rock, or falling, or even scared. I walked and climbed this time almost sort of gracefully. I had actually begun to enjoy the hiking in a sick way. Hoping from rock to rock like it was a game at times. I knew all the tricks now and was better at choosing where to step. I had learned that the mossy rocks are the best for traction and can be crossed quite easily. I ascended waterfalls swiftly and carefully for falling was not an option. I knew what trees to grab and which ones not to because of spikes. However, most of all I knew what to expect and I knew that I could accomplish the hike. Although, by the end of the hike I was still exhausted and my knees throbbed in agony I was not nearly as tired or tattered as I remember being from the other hike. This time something was different at first I could not quite put my finger on it but then it hit me. I was comfortable. The jungle had become my home in some weird way and although at first it was not welcoming now with the help of my team I had conquered it. There we were at the same site where we had camped almost a month early. The remains or our hut still in place, as well as the ashes from our fire. It all brought back memories and helped conclude my stay in Pohnpei.
We stayed here at the upper site Monday and Tuesday nights. We worked all day Tuesday doing transects from the top down. Starting at 600 meters and working our way to 500, and 400 doing 3 transects at each stop. On Wednesday our plan was to hike down to hut on the riverbanks at around 200 meters and do transects at 300m on the way. However, because my hiking was still kinda slow me and Ray hiked down to the hut Wednesday and I was excused from working. We were going to be sharing the hut with the family that lived there. It would be this experience that I will remember most about Pohnpei.
Here by a large pool in the river we stayed with relatives of Ray. They live here with no electricity, no running water, no bathroom, shower, or any of those thing we take for granted living in civilization. That night we drank Sakau by the river it was a nice conclusion to my stay in the jungle. The river flowed gently by us and the breeze occasionally rustled the trees. I could almost hear the jungle saying goodbye as I sat and reflected on the time I had spent. We sat on the rocks in the riverbed pounded and drank Sakau until we all went to bed it was a good night. The next morning Ray had to hike up to another site to retrieve sediment Jars and Wayne and the rest of the team had to hike up to finish some transects. They told me I could stay at the house and relax also because I still hiked kinda slow.
So then they left and there I was with a Pohnpeian family Husband, Wife 3 daughters, and a Son. The daughters were all young still children and the boy was the youngest beside the baby. It was me and them there Enlgish was minimal as well as my Pohnpeian, however I would find myself amazed by their culture and way of life. Beautiful is the only way to describe it. They live a simple life by the river and seeing it was humbling. The river is where they get there water, wash their clothes, dishes, take their showers, and swim. Fires are used as stoves they build them between the rocks which are then used to support pots. As I observed the family go about their daily tasks I am fascinated. I am told to sleep, or rest but I can not. From time to time the young boy would come up to me and ask me something in Pohnpeian. He would wait patiently for a response and when I looked at him confused he would simply ask again. He did not understand that I could not speak Pohnpeian and must have thought I was some kind of mute. The oldest daughter maybe young teens would stand with the baby and stare at me at times, although I can not blame her I often have that effect on women. Probably also wondering the it moves does it talk. The Family hierarchy was very simple. The father was in charge, the oldest daughter cared and tended to the baby, The mother oversaw all the cooking and the children helped and unknowingly learned at the same time. They fixed a lunch of fried reef fish, hooch (mashed banana cooked in banana leaf with coconut milk), and sea cucumber that had been thinly sliced and marinated. The sea cucumber was really good it has a clam like taste as is more slimy and chewy than a clam. I sat on the riverbed and ate lunch with the family and a few other relatives that had come up. After lunch I cooled of in the river and was joined by the young boy who enjoyed playing in the water.
I do not know how long I was there alone with the family it felt like 2 to 3 hours, but I remember thinking that I could have stayed their forever. I found myself somewhat envious of their way of life. They swim in the river every day and dine on local foods. However, most importantly they are happy. Living in western society as it is called civilization can often make us loose sight of what is truly important family and friends. We obsess over deadlines, possessions, money, bills, rent, and the future to name a few. We race through school, then college, and then race to find a job. Rarely stopping to see where we are going or where we have been We live a faster paced life wanting to get everything done as fast as possible sometimes finding ourselves in a constant rush. Sometimes not even realizing how much we really have. This family showed me how easy it is to be happy and enjoy life. All you need is family and friends and happiness will come along with it. When the rest of the team came back from the upland forest I knew it would be time to leave and I was sad. I said my goodbyes to the family and thanked them for their gracious hospitality. They had so little yet they shared so much with me. Not just food and a place to stay but they shared their culture and way of life and for this I will be forever great-full.
As we hiked out of the jungle this time I was sad. I said my goodbyes to the plants the rocks and the jungle. When we reached the bridge where four weeks earlier I took a picture of myself and posted it with the caption “me relived to be out of the jungle in on piece”. This time my feelings were much different I was not relieved and was sad to leave the jungle. This trip had changed me and I was no longer the scared Menwai that first arrived here. I have been here a little over a month and I have spent 20 days in the jungle almost more time than in town. I had seen parts of Pohnpeian culture that your average tourist would miss. I had also been places that on the Island that your average tourist would not dream of going. My last field excursion was now over however, little did I know that much more awaited me in Pohnpei.

Saturday 7-25

Friday was the Conservation Society of Pohnpei's (CSP's) birthday. The party was good pretty much your standard party with tents, and booths explaining their mission and goals with the different programs marine, terrestrial, ethno, and education. The only thing that was different was the Sakau drinking afterward. That night I went out to Nett with some people from CSP to drink Sakau and then we went to a couple bars. However, that is not the story I wish to tell now. I have a much better one. That night Ray invited me to come to his house Saturday for a wake. Through our treks we have become good friends, and he wanted to drink Sakau with me before I left. I had not idea what to expect and was truly amazed by the experience.
Ray picked me up at the apartment and we took a Taxi to Nett near by. We walked in off the road past a few huts through a taro clearing and down a short dirt path. We then came to a large concrete style hut where lots of people where gathered. When I say hut I am referring to a traditional pohnpeian style hut they are rectangular in shape missing one side this is where you enter. The center is ground level and the sides are raised concrete platforms the back and highest platform reserved for the chiefs and men with highest titles. There are times when I find picture taking inappropriate and this was one of them. I already stood out as the only Menwai at the occasion and I did not want to stand out even more by snapping pictures. Furthermore, I did not want to break some sort of cultural taboo, so there will be no pictures on this post. Now lets get back to the story at hand. I would like to warn my readers that this next part is a little graphic however, leaving it out would not give justice to the story. Aunt Patti you will probably enjoy reading this part Caroline you might want to skip down to the next paragraph.
We arrived to the slaughtering of pigs. This was something that I have never witnessed. As westerners we have the privilege and the money to go to grocery stores or butcher and buy our meats. We simply go to the counter and select from a plethora of meats or ask for the cut that we want. The butcher goes to the back cuts the meat and brings it to you neatly packaged and labeled with a price. Someone else dose the dirty work for us. In Pohnpei that luxury if thats what you would like to call does not exist nor is it part of their culture. Pigs are raised to be sold, killed, and eaten, people with large pigs have what they call on the island pig wealth. Like I said we arrived to the slaughtering of pigs. The Slaughtering is done by the older teen boys and younger. The young ones watch how it is done and again unknowingly learn at the same time. It really is quite a simply process the pig is hog tied and placed on its side. Then one of the boys comes over with a sharpened machete. He positions the blade over the heart and takes his stance. With precise aim and a swift jab the machete is thrust into the heart of the pig. At this point the pig lets out a loud squeal and shakes violently taking a few moments to die. The first scream sent shivers down my spine, and the moments that the pig squealed and took its last breath felt like hours, and then it was over. We went back towards the hut where they were gutting and cleaning the pigs. The site and smell of the guts was almost sickening if I had eaten lunch it probably would have come up. The smell sat in the humid air and it seemed that you could almost feel it. Again the older boys gutted the pigs as the younger ones watched again learning how. As I starred at the small and large intestines and other organs of the pig and watched the boys execute the cleaning of the animal with precession and accuracy I found myself amazed. These boys knew exactly what they were doing these methods had been passed down from generation to generation and they were continuing the tradition. After we had our fill of blood and guts it was time to get to drinking Sakau.
I was relived when I entered the hut because the smell of pig guts was replaced by the smell of Sakau. It was not till I entered the hut that I realized how many people were really at this event. I would estimate around 150 + it makes a Maehr family gathering look like a small picnic. We grabbed our seats my a bucket and rays a log. It was around 1pm when we sat down to start drinking Sakau. When we first sat down there were about 5 people around that stone with us. We began to drink. Although, I knew it when I arrived I quickly realized when I sat down that I was the only Menwai at this event. It was me inside the hut and then 150+ Pohnpeians the only one who was actually familiar with me was Ray. This was slightly dis-concerning. Even though I had gotten used to being a minority wherever I went this was different. I was experiencing, and participating in a unique part of the culture and I felt I had overlooked a few things. For one I did not bring anything to offer to the family/chiefs, nor was I introduced or did I pay my respects to the chiefs. I thought I had broken some sort of cultural taboo and was very nervous at the time. Furthermore, I soon realized that my seat choice was not a wise decision. Originally I thought the bucket would be quite comfortable, but I soon realized that its rimmed edge was digging into my ass quite uncomfortably. At first I ignored it and the Sakau helped that, but after a while it caused one of my legs to fall asleep. This became another problem. There were no other seats to be had so I kept having to shake my leg discreetly without looking like to much of a weirdo. I also had to keep up with the Sakau rotation passing the cup in the right direction. After a while of this someone in our circle got up to leave and somehow I was able to snag a actually chair. This is when I got really comfortable and began glancing around the room checking everything out.
As I looked around occasionally I would catch eyes with someone doing the same thing. Only they would do a double take because they would be surprised to see a lone menwai in the room. They would look at me and I them and then they would point to their head. This was a hand symbol I had learned that meant you were Sakaued I would nod agreeing and they would smile. At one point I caught eyes with one of the chiefs standing at his post. I nodded my head and communicated to him using male telepathic communication (MTC), thank you for having me I am very grateful this is a beautiful event. He nodded back understanding what I had communicated. As we sat and drank you would hear pigs being slaughtered every 15 minutes or so, after a while I did not even alarm you. There was an older women sitting near us on the hut. Her Moo Moo did not even reach high enough to cover her breasts. She made no effort to conceal them. It seemed her attitude was I old and these are my breast and its to hot to wear a bra. When she spoke all the women around her listened even I found myself trying to listen. Even though I would never understand. Her expression seemed to say so much her experiences, her life, knowledge, struggle, happiness, and sorrow . All of which would be totally different experiences then a western person her age. The proceedings of the wake were also very interesting.
Families would come in bringing offerings to the chiefs and families and for the event. This would include food, drinks, and Sakau. People would march in with the offerings give them to the chief and then the highest ranking man from that family would make a speech. Although, I never understood what they said I am guessing it was a type of elegy. Pounds and Pounds of Sakau were brought one plant was brought in to be drank that was the length of the house and took 4 large Pohnpeians to carry. I am guessing it exceeded 100lbs in weight and that is probably a low estimate. When the new Sakau was brought in it was time to refresh the stones.
Fresh roots replaced the old mash on all the stones and the ceremony began. First it was pounded once every stone had pounded the Sakau it was time for fresh Hibiscus to be brought it. The chief waved his hand and everyone pounding began banging their rocks against the Sakau stones. It was a symphony of sounds starting slowly and escalating. Then the hibiscus was brought it the chief waved his hand and it stopped. Then the drinking began the first cups always being brought to the chiefs, and then after that they were offered to the men with the next highest ranking. The chiefs would call them up to have their cup. This all went like clockwork the chief calling title after title until all had drank.
Eventually the pigs were brought in around 12 pigs had been slaughtered and then cooked in an ohm. After that food was distributed to everyone, included pig, fish, drinks, snacks. Anything that the families had brought was offered to everyone. Keep in mind that this whole time everyone was still drinking Sakau including myself. Furthermore, by this point our rock had become abandoned so it was just Ray and I drinking cup after cup. Ray Squeezing and myself catching. After about 4 hours of drinking Ray and I excused ourselves I thanked the chiefs we grabbed some fish and left. We went up to another hut where we sat and drank a few beers. That night we fixed dinner at the apartment and I slept.
Reflecting back on this event as I wrote this was very interesting. Although I did not realize it when I was their or I just did not get it. I had experienced a unique part of a culture. A ceremony that has been occurring on this island for ages. I had experienced a part of the culture that your average tourist of Pohnpei would never see. I had also began to Reflect upon my time here in Pohnpei because it was beginning to wrap up. I had seen so much and experienced a great deal. The culture and way of life of the people had impacted me. I am sitting here now in Palau writing this. The week after 7-28 to the 30th I spent on Black Coral Atoll where I snorkeled relaxed and reflected. CSP was running a youth environmental summer camp which turned out to be a great program. It was a nice culmination to my time in Pohnpei. After 3 days their it was time for me to head back to the mainland because I had a flight to catch. Like that my time in Pohnpei had ended I had mad some great friends who I know miss me as I them. The experience is likely to impact the rest of my life. This will conclude my writings on Pohnpei now I am in Palau where I have been busy working and relaxing catching up on some much needed rest. My parents are here and they are enjoying it just as much.
Palau is arguably one of the most beautiful places in the world. I realize this is a bold statement for a person like myself I realize I am young and have not seen much of the world I have seen a good slice. My passport is filled with stamps from Spain, England, Bahamas, Brazil, Belize, Honduras, Turks and Caicos, US and British Virgin Islands to name a few. However, Palau is it. Here the forces of nature come togeather to create a beautiful archipelago that creates an incredible amount of biodiversity. The life that occurs here is overwhelming to the senses. the 300+ Rock islands that dot the sea create lush green mountains. Where just below a immense marine ecosystem strives with life. It is a place where all the elements come together creating a beautiful and fascinating medium. The light creates colors that can not be captured by a camera. However, that is all for now more will follow on Palau I hope you all enjoyed.

From the Rock 7-13 to 7-18

2008-07-19T13:46:00.000-07:00

It started from the rock. Sunday night Alfonso and I went down to the market (Sakau bar) to drink from the rock. This is the term used when the Sakau is pounded squeezed and drank fresh. At other bars you buy bottles of Sakau at this market you pay six dollars a person and it is all you can drink. The seating is outside under a tin roofed hut. A server comes around to the tables with a coconut filled with Sakau and everyone drinks from it. When it is empty he returns to the stones to refill and make another round to the tables. Alfonso and I drank here for a while until we called a taxi to return to the apartment where we ate and then prepared for the following day. This brings up my next point. Contrary to popular belief I am not living in a tree, thats only during the week when we are in the jungle. So most of the time I am living in a tree because we have spent more time in the jungle then in town or our apartment. This past trek in the jungle was relatively relaxing although we did get a lot of work done.
I thought I might take this opportunity to give everyone some insight into camping and living in the jungle. It definitely has its ups and downs, but there are some things you learn along the way that can make your stay more comfortable. One of the best things about the jungle is that you always know right before it is going to rain. This is because you can hear it coming. At first the rain sounds like a breeze blowing through the trees or a stream flowing across rocks. However, you soon realize that its not windy and that you did not hear a stream before. Furthermore, the noise is getting louder and louder until its right on top of you. Sometimes, it pours and sometimes its just a drizzle, but it comes quick and depending on how long it lasts is usually gone before you realize it has past. When it does rain the jungle also provides umbrellas the large leaves from the banana tree make a great umbrella and they can simply be discard when it stops. However, there really is not much of a point in trying to stay dry you are going to get wet and there is nothing you can really do about it. Due to all the rain there is there is also a lot of mud in the jungle. Some of the mud looks a lot like ground and you do not realize it until half your leg is berried in mud. Your legs will get muddy and it is very persistent mud that does not like coming off once it has dried on. Really the mud is the most annoying thing about the jungle because it makes it impossible to stay clean, and sleeping muddy just sucks. The jungle also provides some very useful building materials.
Palm fronds are great for building huts and houses when we have too. They can also be used to make a nice dry place to sit and eat lunch. the bark from the hibiscus tree is not only good for squeezing Sakau but it makes great rope. The best part is that you do not have to carry heavy rope up with you when you get o the site you can just strip some hibiscus of its bark and use it. Large ferns make a great bedding to lay down in the hut and they are also quite comfortable and warm. Some plants provide a flower that can be squeezed and used as a shampoo. These things can make the jungle quite hospitable when implemented correctly. They have definitely improved our stays in the jungle.
We managed to get a lot of work done when we were in the jungle this trek. We completed 12 transects. This time we were again looking at the impact of the Sakau clearings. We did 3 above clearings, 3 on abandoned clearings, 3 on present farms, 3 below clearings. It was a lot of work and we managed to finish them all. However, usually by the end of the day our brains were pretty fried. However, when we finished we were all very relived. I had some question asked about my previous blog from my Aunt Susan, who can ask question just as fast in emails as she can in person. I would like to take the opportunity to answer them.
She asked why the spider researchers sprayed the webs with corn starch. They do this because it makes the webs more visible and more easily photographed. Many spider species can be identified by the type of web they make so this is why they photographed the web. She also asked about the Sakau crop and what kind of money it yields. Sakau is a huge cash crop here and I do not believe that they export it. One of the major farmers recently bought a truck in Guam he payed 30,000 USD in cash for it. She also asked if it would be hard to get them to abandon this crop. The program here is not trying to get people to abandon the crop. It is just encouraging them to grow low and not in the upland forest. This is because the clearings in the upland forest are affecting the watershed, and increasing soil erosion. That covers all of Aunt Susans questions for now if I know her there will probably be more. Lets get back to our past trek in the jungle.
The last night there we ran into some Sakau farmers and we ended up spending the night with them in a hut. We also drank some Sakau with them. This was nice and it was a nice ending to our time in the jungle and it also makes sleeping that much better. I even got the opportunity to pound some Sakau. You have to clean it, pound, squeeze it before you can drink it. Sakau Tubers
Pound ItPull HibiscusPack Sakau into the Hibiscus
Roll ItSqueeze it and enjoy
The next day we woke up and finished our last transect and then hiked down to Kitti. It was an relatively easy hike as jungle hikes go and it was not that long. When we got down we had lunch at Emos's and then hung out it Kitti. We went down to the river to go for a swim. Before we jumped in about four eels swam by the biggest one was about 4 feet. After we saw them we all jumped in the water which was most refreshing. After our swim it was time to celebrate.
It ended from the rock. After our swim we decided to wait a little to drink Sakau. We did not realize that someone was leaving so the village was also having a celebration. We pounded Sakau and the chief stood and distributed the cups. It was very interesting to drink Sakau in a traditional setting with the chief overseeing the activities. The first cups always go to the highest ranking people and then after that they just go around. Everyone was enjoying themselves and we all drank and eat to our hearts desire. The locals cooked whole pig in a ohm (underground oven), and that was distributed in the same manner as the Sakau by the chief. It was a very humbling experience to participate in. The people here are still very much in touch with their culture and they take drinking very seriously. When you are drinking Sakau in a setting like this it is almost like traveling back in time. You are constantly thinking that this is has this has been done since people first settled this Island. At one point a older gentleman got up to give a speech although I couldn't understand a word he was saying it sounding like he was saying some pretty insightful stuff so I listened. Thats another thing although everyone speaks English to some degree they usually speak Pohnpeian. Which I understand very little of. However, this does not really bother me everyone is very nice and I can usually get the gist of what they are trying to communicate. After eating and drinking we returned to the apartment to retire. The culture here is very interesting and beautiful although similar in some ways to ours and other Micronesian cultures it is very unique.
There are some things here that I do not think that I will ever get used to. It is always shocking to see a 10 year old wielding a Machete. However, this is just part of their culture. My aunt also asked how people keep track of the kids when they are drinking Sakau. The little ones sit in parents lap the others usually run around. They do not really keep track of them I guess. The parents just let the kids learn the hard way and the older siblings do a lot of the watching. However, this allows the children to grow up very strong and they become very experienced, and understand their culture well. Most people here have large families and everyone knows everyone so it creates a large close nit community. Wayne and I are always welcomed and treated as if we are family at many of the places we go. The people are always interesting and many of them are very interested to why we are here and what we are doing. They always respect you more when they find out you are spending 4 days a week in the jungle are are very curious to what you are doing there.
I have been here almost a month and although I understand more then when I came here but I still have so much to learn. It is hard to believe that I will be leaving soon and I will definitely be sad to go. Next week we are going up the same way we went up the first week. I am excited about this because I will be able to see how my hiking skills have improved. Other than that I am hoping to go diving this weekend. I will probably go drink Sakau at market tonight with some friends, but other than that I will just be relaxing this weekend. Hope you all enjoy reading my blog and I will talk to everyone soon. If you have any question just leave a comment. Also just leave a comment with your name and a hello I am curious to see who is reading.

Fishing 7-12

2008-07-12T18:26:00.001-07:00

Yea so we went fishing yesterday it was pretty awesome. Despite some engine trouble which delayed us an hour we still managed to make it all the way around the Island. Although, the fishing was a little slow it was nice to be out on the water. We ended up with a catch of 2 barracuda, a needle nose, and a 20lb Wahoo. We lost a couple fish one big fish to a broken lure which was disappointing. We went out with this German guy Conrad he was quite the character the name of his boat is Bavaria and it is a small fishing boat. Again it was a lot of fun and just nice to be out on the water.
We are going out on into the jungle again Monday and will be there till Thursday, so I will be out of contact. I will talk to everyone soon.

Wayne with the catch of the day 20lb Wahoo.

We are not Alone 7-8-08 to 7-11-08

2008-07-12T02:42:00.000-07:00

Our trek to the field this time included a hike up to Nanhnlaud the highest point on Pohnpei at 770 meters. The crew would be myself Emos (guide), Ray (guide), Alfonso (intern), Wayne (boss), Calvin (Wayne's host little brother). We left Tuesday starting from the Kitti side of the island and made our way up to a cave at the base at Nahnlaud. I would call it more of a large rock overhang than a cave. This is the base camp for Nahnlaud at 540 meters. Group on the Way up from left Wayne, Calvin, Emos, Me, 2 farmers, Alfonso (in red), and Ray

On our way up we came to a new Sakau clearing about a half acre of cleared forest. The locals had cut down all the small trees with machetes. The trees that were too big to chop with a machete had been stripped of their bark around the perimeter and left to die. Here you could hear the earth crying. However, its cries were not loud like those of a child the jungle was just completely silent. There were no birds, or frogs or living plants just fallen trees and debris lied everywhere. We passed 16 clearings on our way up and down the mountain the new ones were the most heart wrenching. On a more positive note the hike up was relatively easy we were on a trail most of the way it was just long. We spent the night at the cave and planned to hike up to the peak the next day. However, we were surprised by some guests that evening at the cave. Nahnlaud from the sea. Its the Plateau next to the pointy peak in the middle.

Right After we got to the cave and set up camp a Pohnpeian came up. When we asked him what we where doing he said he was a guide for some researchers. These researches were collecting moths and spiders. It all worked out well though because there was plenty of room in the cave and they worked at night while we worked at the day. We were able to share the space in the cave and at Nahnlaud with no fights. It was neat to see how moths and spiders were collected. The moth guy carried up fluorescent lights that he set up against sheets and then captured the moths in plastic bags. The spider people would blast the spider webs with corn starch study and take pictures of the webs and then collect the spiders. While they worked at night I worked on my prawning skills trying to spear prawns in the nearby stream. Although, I got one my aim definitely has room for improvement. The next morning we would hike up to Nahnlaud and start our research.
Now that the USDA is gone we are finally able to work on the plant project. The goal of the Project is eventually to complete a cross section, which will be made up of multiple transects of the entire island that includes all the forests types on the island at various elevations. This includes; dwarf, agro (cultivated) , upland , palm, mangrove, and swamp forests. This would give us a picture of the island and the biodiversity that is present on it. We will also look at the impact of Sakau clearings on biodiversity. It is the cross section that brought us to Nahnlaud. Nahnlaud is the highest point therefore, it was our ceiling so our transects would start at around 770 meters and then work down to 700, 600, 500 and so on. Each transect would be a 10m by 20m rectangle that would be divided into four smaller rectangle. We would measure the diameter of each tree that was larger than 10cm estimate and estimate their height. We would then look at smaller plots and count and measure the smaller species. Its a tough job but someone has to do it. That is our plan and we figured we would start at the top so Nahnlaud was our destination.Cool snail we found just before the peak.

The hike up to Nahnlaud from the cave was not a long hike and their was a trail the whole way however, it was a lot of vertical hiking. When we reached the peak the view was breathtaking we were at the top of Pohnpei. The top of this small world that I have been living in for the past 4 weeks. It was pretty cloudy and at times when clouds rolled by you could not see more than 20 meters off the peak. However, occasionally the wind would clear the sky and you could see all the way to town where we are staying. It seemed so close yet it was so far away. After we enjoyed the view and some Oreos we set up and did our first two transects at 750 meters.Emos and I summiting NahnlaudView from Nahnlaud you can see Colonia where we live small town and Sokehs rock silhouetted in the background.Everyone at the Summit.

After transecting it was time for dinner and some well needed rest. Apparently that night we were visited by a ghost Emos said he had gone looking for it at night and Wayne said he thought something had shook his tarp. I recalled hearing some strange noises at night. The locals say the upland forest is haunted but no one really likes to talk about it so we do not really ask. The next day Thursday it was time for our hike down and on the way we were planning on doing two transects at 700 meters which we completed.
We hiked down the Nett side of the Island. The hike down was long and difficult because we were trail blazing part of the way down. Although, I later found out we only covered 3 miles on the way down from 700 meters to 150 meters (7 total miles for the trek). Like I said earlier jungle miles are slow and difficult. However, traveling down your own trail is very rewarding because we came down through parts of the jungle that most people do not and have not. My jungle hiking skills have improved greatly. I am more confident on my steps and my movement is slightly more graceful. Although, I still travel slowly I am only trying to be safe. My log crossing skills are even getting better as long as I have a walking stick. Fallen trees are used as bridges to cross rock quarries sometimes. The Pohnpeians can cross them at ease but for Menwai they are almost more of an obstacle. Reaching the start of a trail was a relief and it made the hiking much easier.
When we got towards the end of the trail we came across some women enjoying their evening. They offered us some Pohnpeian Apples. Apples here are much smaller but juicer and softer they are delicious especially after a long hike. I enjoyed each bite like it was my last. When we reached the road which starts when the trail ends it was a relief and we slowly ascending heading towards the car. As we went down we passed a few houses. You could here the pounding of Sakau and people just enjoying their evening. A few of them asked us where we were coming from and when you said Nahnlaud they looked at you with a bit of respect. Some Pohnpeians will never make it up there and for a Menwai to do it merits respect.
This last trek was very rewarding and I have become much closer to our guides. We have fun while working and hiking. A good laugh is never far away when we are all together. My time here in Pohnpei is slowly coming to an end. I have about three weeks left which is not that much time. I will be very sad to leave my friends here. However, luckily I am only trading one paradise for another, and one great family for another.
Its Friday here now and we are just finishing up a day at the lab. I just found out that tomorrow we are going fishing as part of a tournament. We will be leaving at 5am and hopefully getting some good fish. Last time they won the tournament with a blue Marline weighing in at 367lbs. I am also looking forward to a day on the water. Well thats all for now I will let everyone know if we catch anything tomorrow.

Weekend 7-4 to 7-6

2008-07-12T02:39:00.000-07:00

Sorry about the late posts I have been busy working and what not.

Roseo's House. 7-5
On Saturday night we were invited to Roseo's house to celebrate his twin daughters first birthday. We arrived slightly late because we had to do some work at the lab. When we got there the party was already underway. We brought our party favors soda and ice cream to the highest titled man of the house and paid our respects. All of Roseo's family was there with numbers that could trump the Maehrs (which is not an easy feat). At a Pohnpeian party instead of sitting around drinking booze everyone sits around and drinks Sakau. Although the celebration is similar in someway to our celebrations the mood is quite different because of the mellowing affects of Sakau. Everyone was sitting outside under a large tin roofed hut. There were three Sakau stones which guests were situated around and two men at each stone pounding, poring, and distributing. While the adults drank outside the children played inside similar to our parties. We were treated to a plate of local cuisine when we arrived which included; surgeon fish sashimi (whole), pasta, grilled chicken, and pork ribs. All were delicious however I waited to eat because we were all enjoying Sakau. After a few cups of Sakau we excused ourselves and headed back to the apartment. It was interesting to see how Pohnpeians celebrate the party was similar to our celebration except booze is replaced by Sakau, and the music is the pounding of Sakau. The night was fun and I slept well that night partly because of the Sakau.

Lunch at Emos's 7-6

On Sunday Emos invited to Kitti where he lives to eat lunch. His wife and sister prepared us a plethora of food which included; Taro soup, fried fish, turkey tail, fresh taro chips, and fried plantains. The lunch was delicious and after a short lay down session we headed down to the local Sakau bar.
The Sakau bars become are the local hangouts and congregation centers. People begin to congregate at them at around 4 and stay however long they desire, or they drink to much Sakau and have to wait until they can walk again. Everyone sits around drinking Sakau while the children play in the streets and enjoy ice pops and sodas. Families will bring a Ukalali and play and sing Pohnpeian songs. The social scene is quite exciting and everyone enjoys themselves as they throw back cup after cup of Sakau. I did quite a bit of drinking because I was responsible for representing the Menwai (white people or foreigners not an offensive term). Wayne our driver was trying to take it easy and Sayuri (our friend from upstairs) could not handle the taste. Therefore, it was up to me to keep us from looking bad. After we finished two big gulps of Sakau between the group we were off. I was quite curious where they got these big gulps being that I have not seen a 7-11 on this Island. We gave Emos and his Wife a ride and dropped them off at another Sakau bar near there house where they said we had to have one more cup. At this point I was pretty Sakaued and I knew that one cup did not mean one cup because I would have to drink Waynes cup and Sayuri's cup as well. Furthermore, one cup never means one cup especially when Emos says it. So, after three and a half cups of Sakau I bought a beer from the store and we got in the car and drove back to our apartment.
On the way back we stopped at the College of Micronesia (COM or the lab) because there was a beautiful sunset and we wanted to take some pictures. I was quite worried that when I stepped out of the car I was going to collapse because of Sakau legs. However, although my legs were wobbly I was able to walk to take some pictures. After our picture taking we went back to the apartment to relax. Wayne and I decided to go out to get something to eat although I was not that hungry I knew I had to eat. The locals say you should always eat after you drink Sakau because it helps prevent a hangover the next morning. We went out to Joy a restaurant slash hotel where I had some Udon. When we got back to the apartment I was quite tired and pretty Sakaued. I crawled into bed and passed out quite easily.
Its Monday here now. Surprisingly I felt pretty good this morning and even better after a cup of coffee. I am looking forward to the week ahead we are planning on hiking to the highest point on the Island which should be challenging, rewarding, and of course fun. I will talk to everyone before I leave.

Sakau it to me

2008-07-04T14:46:00.000-07:00

6/26

Nan Modol

This Sunday we visited Nan Madol some historic ruins on Pohnpei. These structures were built by the first settlers of Pohnpei and was the first religious and political center on the Island. They were made out of massive basalt stones piles to form large rectangular buildings. The walls in some places were 10-15 meters in height and the stones were huge. Similar to the Pyramids the mystery of how these stones were put in place is still in question. The stones had to be moved from quarries and then lifted into place with no cranes or mechanized equipment. The structure is still impressive to this day. Archaeologists date the construction, building, and use of Nan Modol from 500 A.D to the mid 1500's. The ruins were quite breathtaking and really made you think. Mostly just how did these people manage to build this. There was even a Sakau stone which they used to pound Sakau. This is part of the reason Sakau is such a spiritual and ritual experience because it has been part of Pohnpeian culture for so long. There are many myths and legends that surround Nan Madol some say it was modeled after an underwater city that lies offshore. The locals believe that two sharks guard this city to stop people from visiting it. Wayne said he had an Australian friend that tried to dive it, and two hammerhead sharks scared them off. The smaller of the two approached them and brushed up against the diver cutting his wet suit. Perhaps there is some truth to the locals superstitions and legends it was enough to keep me out of the water there. The visit to Nan Modol was very interesting and brought me closer to Pohnpeian culture it is a very impressive structure and a humbling experience.

Sayuri at the base of the largest wall of Nan Madol

Field 6/27 to 6/23

Compared to our first trek into the field this trek was like a walk in the park. For one we were not bush-waking through dense jungle. We still followed the same schedule hiking up to the site on Monday spending two days at the first site sampling upper and lower parts of the same stream. Wednesday we hiked to the second site did our work there and Thursday we came down. This time we hiked to the Sakau farms and we were looking at the stream biodiversity there. We still hiked up to around 500 meters and it was very sad to see the impact the farms have had. The locals simply clear out the forest around the stream and then plant it. We are trying to determine what kind of impact this has on the streams and the surrounding plant biodiversity. This is why we look at upper sites that are not farmed as well as farmed sites so we can then compare them. We look at everything from the critters in the streams to the nutrients in the water. The jungle was much less dense and there were trails all the way to our sites. We were also rewarded with some breathtaking vistas of the Pacific on our way up. At our camp there was even a hut and latrines we were able to use. This was really nice. Even our meals improved.

The first night there we had BBQ turkey tail and Turkey tail Ramen. These were both delicious mostly because they were hot. However, after that it was back to tuna, kim chi, Nori, and canned spaghetti all mixed together cold and served with warm rice. I found that if you pack the food in between warm rice you can kinda heat it up, but other than that its cold. The second night there Emos and Castino pounded Sakau fresh and we had some of that. The whole process of making Sakau is interesting to watch and it is even more interesting when you think this is how it has been done since people first settled here in Pohnpei. First they take the root and pound it till it is a fine mash. Water is added to the mash to make it moist. Once the root is mashed they take strips of bark from the Hibiscus tree and tie them together at the top. They then take the pounded root and place it into the strips of Hibiscus. The Hibiscus is then rolled around the pounded root resembling a giant joint. Then they twist the joint like one would ring out a wet shirt squeezing the juice out of the root. This brown liquid is collected filtered to remove the large particles and then drank. Drinking Sakau is still a very spiritual and ritualistic event. The first cup is always given to the person with the highest title or to the guest. After the first cup goes around then it is simply passed in a circle. Drinking the Sakau clears your mind and creates a euphoric, and numbing sensation throughout the body. I had a very good sleep that night from the Sakau because of this. However, the Sakau also gives you what the locals call Sakau legs. I had the pleasure of experiencing this when I got up to pee at night. Your not drunk and your mind is clear but your legs are like noodles under you body. You can not control them standing, and walking become very difficult. I had to grab a walking stick to walk the ten feet from the hut to the bush that I urinated on and I almost fell twice. It was a very interesting night and it was fun to drink Sakau with everyone, however the next morning was not.

Being hungover from Sakau is not like anything else I have experienced. Your body feels weak and you have a slight headache. I forced Ramen soup down my throat because I knew I had to eat, and was dreaded the hike ahead of us to our next site. However, once we started hiking I began to feel better the locals say that you have to sweat out the Sakau the next morning and it will not be so bad. They were right although the beginning was rough once I got moving I was fine. It was about a two hour hike to the next site but again we were mostly on trails and I was able to manage. A couple of the uphills were a little difficult, but other than that I was fine. It rained on our hike over to the second site on Wednesday. Rain is almost welcomed when hiking though because it cools you off. However, it does delay our work.

When we got to the second site there was another hut for us to stay in and we set up camp. We had to wait to begin looking at the stream because the rain had increased its flow making visual surveys impossible. This was good though because it gave me the opportunity to take a nap and recover. When I woke up it was time to set up the stream transect which was done with ease and excitement because this was the last one. We finished our work so early that on Thursday all we had to do was wait till noon so we could pull the sensors from the stream because they have to be in for 24hrs. We passed the time by telling riddles and eating Jungle birds that the locals shot. They were actually pretty tasty sort of like a gamy chicken. The hike down was relatively easy and it was nice and sunny. The only problem was that the storms Thursday morning and the Day before had flooded most of the trail. This however, is really no problem after a few days in the jungle you get used to being wet most of the time. Eventually you do not even realize that you are hiking is wet boots. When we got down we had lunch at Emos's our guides house. We had grilled turkey tail, grilled breadfruit, and rice. It was all really tasty especially after a few meals of cold tuna, kim chi, and nori. It is interesting to see how many of the people on this island live. Most of them live in homes that are little more than a few huts most of the living space is outside. Eating spaces are usually under thatched roofed huts. Lunch was still really good, and after that we headed back into to town.

After 4 days in the jungle a hot shower and a beer are most refreshing and a hot dinner even better, but the best is sleeping in a comfortable bed. Its Friday here now and I am debating going diving again this weekend, but I have not decided yet. I also found out today that we will not be going into the field till Tuesday so I am looking forward to a long weekend. Other than that everything is good here I am hoping to go out this weekend with Alfonso and Castino two of the interns and check out the local scene. Hope everyone is well state side I will keep in touch.

Back From The Feild

2008-07-03T01:28:00.000-07:00

Hey I am back from my past week in the field. I am just posting to let everyone know that I am still well. Here are some pictures from our office in the field. I will post more tomorrow when I have more time to write. Right now we are just having dinner at the Village.
Me and Ray on the hike up . And sunsets Our last Night up.

Blogging and Picture Posting

2008-06-27T01:25:00.000-07:00

I am able to post pictures now but only from The Village it is a resort that has its own wireless and we sometimes eat here. It is right on the Ocean and the view is great here are some sunset pics. I will post pictures whenever I can make it here, but other than that its the only way. I still have to compress them so I am loosing some quality but they still look pretty good. The wireless is town is just to slow and not reliable. However, we do try to come here often because the internet is free and fast. Enjoy and I will talk to everone soon.

The Field

2008-06-27T01:07:00.000-07:00

June 23 to June 27

My first jungle trek was a baptism by fire. We spent three nights and four days in the jungle. This included the hike up on Monday worked all day Tuesday spent our second night at our camp and hiked to a different site Wednesday. We spent the night at that site and worked all day Thursday and hiked down that evening.

The hiking was some of the most intense and most extreme hiking I have ever done. The first day we hiked up to about 450m which does not seem like a lot but it is. Jungle miles are slow, difficult, and at times frightening. As we hiked up we would come to waterfalls that we would have to hike up and around almost vertical mud walls with very little holds and a scary fall down. You tried not to think what would happened if you fell. The local guides hiked up with ease wearing nothing but flip flops on their feet. Their balance was is impeccable and they danced from rock to rock making it look ever so easy. Me on the other hand was a different story. At times I was so afraid of falling I would clamber on all fours from rock to rock

hoping that I did not slip. The worst part about it was that most of the time you could not even see where you foot was going because the ground was covered with mud and leaves. Sometimes the leaves would cover a hole and you would put your foot down on what you thought was ground only to find that nothing was there. Your leg would fall though your heart would jump into your throat and you hoped you were able to catch yourself. Luckily I did most of the time or your leg would only fall a few feet to another rock below. however, it still frightened you enough that you did not want to try it again. Most of the time my adrenaline was coursing through my veins making it impossible to keep my limbs from shaking. Especially when going down. Down was the worst at least going up you knew that if you slipped you would fall up and could grab something at that level. Going down if you fell you fell down. The muddy ground did not help at all either it would slide out from underneath you constantly. Your only hope was to surf the mud down on one foot and catch yourself when you got to the bottom. Sometimes you slid a little further then you were really comfortable wi

th. If you were not ascending or descending mudding slops you were crossing boulder fields climbing from slippery rock to rock you could here water running underneath you which only reminded you of dark spaces below you that you did not want to fall into. Everything was always wet and it was almost nearly impossible to stay dry which made the hiking even more difficult. The hikes did quite a number on me although I completed them I am pretty beat up. My arms and legs are covered it scratches and cuts. It looks as if I was through in sack with a bunch of angry cats. Once we made it to our elevation I became more comfortable, and the second hike was less up and more across, but still very difficult. Reaching our camps was a relief that can not be explained. Although the hiking was frightening and difficult it was very rewarding the jungle is beautiful and we were up in the cloud forest at times hiking through clouds. At night the floor wold g

low with luminescent mushrooms. During our hike on the third day we came across a waterfall of epic proportions. It looked like the kind you see in pictures and advertisements. A long thin stream that fell for hundreds of feet. The locals called it a shortcut to heaven. It was scenes like this that made the trip worth it. You would be exhausted, but nature would be sure to reward you for your hard work.

Emos, and Wayne at the base of the waterfall.

We stopped only to eat and to set up camp. Other then that we were either hiking or working. Our meals were always rice and whatever cold canned food we brought up with us which included; ravioli, beef stew, chili, tuna, corn, salmon, mackerel, and sardines. The last night we made hot ramen soup and it was like a gift from the gods. Luckily the work was not that difficult we sampled four streams mainly looking at biodiversity and stream health. We are then going to compare this data to the data from the cleared streams that they farm Sakau next to. The first two nights we were at one location then the third day we moved and set up another camp to look at another two different streams. We slept in hammocks which were actually very

comfortable while the guides built a jungle hut out of palm fronds. This was also were we ate and relaxed after working. It was actually very cool at night in the jungle which was nice. Camping in the jungle was interesting and finding suitable sites was difficult, but we made the best of what we had. We were always able to keep moral up and enjoyed the evenings of eating and relaxing. I made some good friends on this trek and the next trip will only bring us closer together.

If you had told me what I was about to do before I arrived or left on the trek I would not have believed you. I would have told you that I would not be able to do

that, and probably not have even tried. This trek brought me to my limits and back, but was one of the most rewarding experiences I have ever had. Emos one of our guides gave me a title on this trip; “Nalik” meaning man of trust. I was very honored to receive the title and it also made me feel more welcome. This experience has already made me stronger both mentally and physically and this is only the beginning. There is so much I want to write about, but I just can not put it in words. Pictures will not even do it justice. I am somewhat relived to be out of the jungle, but I am still looking forward to our trek next week.

Me Relived to have made it out of the jungle in one piece.

It is Friday here now and I think we are just planning on relaxing and maybe seeing more of the island. Maybe do some more diving which was great. Well that is all for now I will keep in touch and I will be keeping everyone updated on my adventures in Pohnpei.

Pohnepi

2008-06-21T14:13:00.000-07:00

6/19/08

Welcome to Pohnepi. I left Hawaii at around 7 am June 18th. My flight was from Honolulu to Pohnepi making all the local stops on the way. At each stop half the plane had to get off so they could conduct a security check. However, after 3 stops with about 1 hr flights from Island to Island we arrived in Pohnepi at 2 pm June 19th, and for all this time people have thought time travel is impossible while I beg to differ. I met Caitlin the other person in our team on the plane. When we arrived in Pohnpei we were both very excited. Throughout my life travels I have seen many shack like airports. However, the airports in Korsrae and Pohnepi take the cake. Our bags were brought to baggage claim by pickup truck and a fork lift. The bags were then simply placed inside the building through an open space designated baggage claim. Right behind baggage claim was customs and then we were in. Wayne and Rich picked us up at the airport and took us to our five star residence the H and E apartments. The digs are pretty sweet from left to right Rich, Wayne, Caitlin.
The Apartment is nice we have a sweet back porch with a washer. Once we got settled Wayne and Rich gave us and express tour of the part of the Island we are on. After that me and Caitlin walked into town to check out the scene. Part of downtown Pohnepi is about a quarter mile from our apartment. Downtown. The walk is really nice. However more importantly we found the fish market. MMM fish market pretty much the most important thing to find on any Island. This is because if you cant catch fish you can always buy some.

In the pacific you can eat all the reef fish that you can not eat in the Atlantic and they are really good.
These are the fish at the fish market obviously not enjoying as much as I was.
After our walk into downtown Pohnpei we went back to the place and went out to dinner. The place we went to was good but somehow they were out of Sashimi. Rich and Everyone else got pizza because they had just been in the field and Rich was hungover from Sakau. Sakau is the root they mash up and drink producing a relaxed euphoric sensation. After Dinner we were all pretty tired and just crashed.

6/20/08

Today was the first day of sorta work, but not really. We did not go into the field but met up at at CPA for a staff meeting. It was actually very informative and gave me a lot of insight into all the projects that are going on, on the island. Currently there are four different projects going on on Pohnepi; Terrestrial, Marine, Education, and us. Right now we are working with Rich who is with the USDA studying watershed and the affects of Sakau farming on the forest. The natives have been chopping down native forests to plant Sakau and this has affected the watershed because they have been moving hirer and hirer up on the Island. When they chop down the forest they expose streams to sunlight which changes their chemistry leading to algae build up. This has a direct affect on their water supply and eventually they could affect the marine life which is also economically valuable to the natives. Removing the bigger trees also increases the chances for slides because there is nothing securing the sediment. Our project is trying to reveal how the farming has affected the natural ecosystem and what it could mean if they do not alter their ways. The goal is to establish a watershed line that people wont farm above they encourage people to grow low. The marine projects occurring are monitoring the reef fish especially the ones that are economically viable and are fished by the natives. The educational sector is seeking to educated young Pohnpeians about conservation and preserving their Island habitats. This includes a camp for 40 students that takes them out to the Marine Protected Areas and allows them to snorkel on them. These are the main projects that are happening right now when I find more details I will post them. Once Rich leaves me and Wayne (NYBG) are going to begin to focus more on plant biodiversity, and the relationship the people have to their environment. This means determining what certain plants are used for medicinally, and other practical purposes like canoes. After the meeting we organized some plant specimens alphabetically by family in the lab at the local college and then went to dinner. Tomorrow is Saturday and we have decided to go diving which I am looking forward too. I am also looking forward to Monday when we will be going out into the field for 3 nights. We are going to be camping in Hammocks in the Jungle at around 600m. This is also good because I will get to sleep in a hammock and not on a couch. Well that is all for now I will have more to post tomorrow after diving which should be pretty great. Weather permitting we are heading out to another Atoll about an hour and a half away cant wait.

P.S - I had plan to upload pictures to this blog but it takes to long and uses all my internet time so just use your imagination.

Yankee Game

2008-06-05T11:47:00.000-07:00

This is totally unrelated to my trip but yesterday Wednesday 5/4 I went to the Yankee game with my friend Tony. It was a really good game and we had a great time especially since my other friend who works there comped some of our food and drinks. The Stadium was packed out. People always say that the Yankee's get paid to much, but what other team do you know that sells out a Wednesday night game against Toronto. It is the fans that make the team and NY fans are the best. We had a really good time and it was nice seeing a game in the old Stadium before they open the new one. Mike Mussina was our starting pitcher and he had a pretty good game. We also got to see Mariano Rivera close which he did no problem. Overall it was a fun evening and a great time.

First

2008-05-27T20:12:00.000-07:00

First blog post just checking this out. Homecoming weekend was crazy in the Hamptons. My house was like a battlefield Sunday night bodies everywhere. Overall the weekend was a mess and a great kick off to the summer. I am leaving for Palau in three weeks and the anticipation is building. There is a lot I need to get done between now and then. Well I am out for now I will keep everyone informed and will be posting more once I get closer to leaving. This is a pick of the rock islands of Palau where I will be living for 5 months.