Saturday, July 12, 2008

We are not Alone 7-8-08 to 7-11-08

Our trek to the field this time included a hike up to Nanhnlaud the highest point on Pohnpei at 770 meters. The crew would be myself Emos (guide), Ray (guide), Alfonso (intern), Wayne (boss), Calvin (Wayne's host little brother). We left Tuesday starting from the Kitti side of the island and made our way up to a cave at the base at Nahnlaud. I would call it more of a large rock overhang than a cave. This is the base camp for Nahnlaud at 540 meters. Group on the Way up from left Wayne, Calvin, Emos, Me, 2 farmers, Alfonso (in red), and Ray

On our way up we came to a new Sakau clearing about a half acre of cleared forest. The locals had cut down all the small trees with machetes. The trees that were too big to chop with a machete had been stripped of their bark around the perimeter and left to die. Here you could hear the earth crying. However, its cries were not loud like those of a child the jungle was just completely silent. There were no birds, or frogs or living plants just fallen trees and debris lied everywhere. We passed 16 clearings on our way up and down the mountain the new ones were the most heart wrenching. On a more positive note the hike up was relatively easy we were on a trail most of the way it was just long. We spent the night at the cave and planned to hike up to the peak the next day. However, we were surprised by some guests that evening at the cave. Nahnlaud from the sea. Its the Plateau next to the pointy peak in the middle.

Right After we got to the cave and set up camp a Pohnpeian came up. When we asked him what we where doing he said he was a guide for some researchers. These researches were collecting moths and spiders. It all worked out well though because there was plenty of room in the cave and they worked at night while we worked at the day. We were able to share the space in the cave and at Nahnlaud with no fights. It was neat to see how moths and spiders were collected. The moth guy carried up fluorescent lights that he set up against sheets and then captured the moths in plastic bags. The spider people would blast the spider webs with corn starch study and take pictures of the webs and then collect the spiders. While they worked at night I worked on my prawning skills trying to spear prawns in the nearby stream. Although, I got one my aim definitely has room for improvement. The next morning we would hike up to Nahnlaud and start our research.
Now that the USDA is gone we are finally able to work on the plant project. The goal of the Project is eventually to complete a cross section, which will be made up of multiple transects of the entire island that includes all the forests types on the island at various elevations. This includes; dwarf, agro (cultivated) , upland , palm, mangrove, and swamp forests. This would give us a picture of the island and the biodiversity that is present on it. We will also look at the impact of Sakau clearings on biodiversity. It is the cross section that brought us to Nahnlaud. Nahnlaud is the highest point therefore, it was our ceiling so our transects would start at around 770 meters and then work down to 700, 600, 500 and so on. Each transect would be a 10m by 20m rectangle that would be divided into four smaller rectangle. We would measure the diameter of each tree that was larger than 10cm estimate and estimate their height. We would then look at smaller plots and count and measure the smaller species. Its a tough job but someone has to do it. That is our plan and we figured we would start at the top so Nahnlaud was our destination.Cool snail we found just before the peak.

The hike up to Nahnlaud from the cave was not a long hike and their was a trail the whole way however, it was a lot of vertical hiking. When we reached the peak the view was breathtaking we were at the top of Pohnpei. The top of this small world that I have been living in for the past 4 weeks. It was pretty cloudy and at times when clouds rolled by you could not see more than 20 meters off the peak. However, occasionally the wind would clear the sky and you could see all the way to town where we are staying. It seemed so close yet it was so far away. After we enjoyed the view and some Oreos we set up and did our first two transects at 750 meters.Emos and I summiting NahnlaudView from Nahnlaud you can see Colonia where we live small town and Sokehs rock silhouetted in the background.Everyone at the Summit.

After transecting it was time for dinner and some well needed rest. Apparently that night we were visited by a ghost Emos said he had gone looking for it at night and Wayne said he thought something had shook his tarp. I recalled hearing some strange noises at night. The locals say the upland forest is haunted but no one really likes to talk about it so we do not really ask. The next day Thursday it was time for our hike down and on the way we were planning on doing two transects at 700 meters which we completed.
We hiked down the Nett side of the Island. The hike down was long and difficult because we were trail blazing part of the way down. Although, I later found out we only covered 3 miles on the way down from 700 meters to 150 meters (7 total miles for the trek). Like I said earlier jungle miles are slow and difficult. However, traveling down your own trail is very rewarding because we came down through parts of the jungle that most people do not and have not. My jungle hiking skills have improved greatly. I am more confident on my steps and my movement is slightly more graceful. Although, I still travel slowly I am only trying to be safe. My log crossing skills are even getting better as long as I have a walking stick. Fallen trees are used as bridges to cross rock quarries sometimes. The Pohnpeians can cross them at ease but for Menwai they are almost more of an obstacle. Reaching the start of a trail was a relief and it made the hiking much easier.
When we got towards the end of the trail we came across some women enjoying their evening. They offered us some Pohnpeian Apples. Apples here are much smaller but juicer and softer they are delicious especially after a long hike. I enjoyed each bite like it was my last. When we reached the road which starts when the trail ends it was a relief and we slowly ascending heading towards the car. As we went down we passed a few houses. You could here the pounding of Sakau and people just enjoying their evening. A few of them asked us where we were coming from and when you said Nahnlaud they looked at you with a bit of respect. Some Pohnpeians will never make it up there and for a Menwai to do it merits respect.
This last trek was very rewarding and I have become much closer to our guides. We have fun while working and hiking. A good laugh is never far away when we are all together. My time here in Pohnpei is slowly coming to an end. I have about three weeks left which is not that much time. I will be very sad to leave my friends here. However, luckily I am only trading one paradise for another, and one great family for another.
Its Friday here now and we are just finishing up a day at the lab. I just found out that tomorrow we are going fishing as part of a tournament. We will be leaving at 5am and hopefully getting some good fish. Last time they won the tournament with a blue Marline weighing in at 367lbs. I am also looking forward to a day on the water. Well thats all for now I will let everyone know if we catch anything tomorrow.

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